SPARKLING
WINES
Sparkling
wines
are
wines
that
contain
a
residual
level
of
CO2
.
The
CO2
,
____________________
added
or
produced
by
an
internal
secondary
fermentation
,
changes
the
taste
perceptions
of
sweetness
,
acidity
and
astringency
.
In
addition
,
escaping
bubbles
can
be
visualIy
attractive
(
sparkle
)
.
There
are
three
____________________
methods
of
making
sparkling
wine
:
1
)
Carbonation
:
____________________
wine
is
that
to
which
CO2
has
been
added
from
any
source
other
than
by
its
own
fermentation
,
in
excess
of
100
kPa
pressure
.
2
)
bulk
fermentation
(
the
Charmat
method
)
:
sparkling
wine
must
be
made
by
a
complete
,
or
partial
,
fermentation
of
the
sugar
content
,
and
be
charged
with
CO2
.
Sugar
and
/
or
wine
spirit
may
be
added
;
3
)
the
classic
champagne
method
(
méthode
champénoise
)
:
champagne
must
be
produced
by
the
traditional
method
of
fermentation
in
a
____________________
of
less
than
5
L
capacity
,
and
aged
on
the
____________________
for
not
less
than
6
months
;
.
However
carbonation
is
achieved
,
all
sparkling
wines
originate
from
a
'base
wine'
,
which
is
invariably
____________________
and
fermented
in
a
conventional
way
.
The
level
of
carbonation
in
a
sparkling
wine
can
be
known
measuring
the
amount
of
internal
pressure
in
the
finished
bottle
at
a
given
temperature
(
usually
expressed
in
atmospheres
,
or
bars
)
.
The
SI
unit
of
pressure
is
the
Pascal
.
One
bar
pressure
is
equivalent
to
100
kPa
and
0
.
9869
atmospheres
(
i
.
e
.
one
atmosphere
=
101
.
327
kPa
)
.
The
Champagne
Method
The
most
complex
and
most
traditional
means
of
gaining
carbonation
in
wine
is
via
a
____________________
____________________
by
Saccharomyces
cerevisiae
,
and
the
most
notable
ex
ample
is
,
of
course
,
champagne
.
The
Champagne
Appellation
has
some
of
the
strictest
,
most
exacting
standards
for
growing
,
producing
and
labelling
in
all
of
the
wine
world
.
The
classic
grape
varieties
of
Champagne
are
Pinot
Noir
or
Chardonnay
.
Grapes
are
picked
____________________
in
the
season
than
those
for
still
wines
,
so
the
high
level
of
organic
acids
will
have
a
____________________
effect
during
the
long
processing
.
The
accordingly
lower
sugar
levels
will
mean
lower
levels
of
alcohol
during
primary
fermentation
,
but
this
will
be
compensated
for
during
secondary
fermentation
in
bottle
.
The
hand
-
picked
grapes
are
____________________
pressed
,
ensuring
minimal
contact
between
juice
and
broken
skins
.
Skin
fragments
and
other
gross
impurities
can
be
settled
out
of
the
juice
(
clarification
)
at
normal
cellar
temperatures
or
chilling
to
-
5°C
if
necessary
.
Bentonite
is
sometimes
used
as
an
aid
to
sedimentation
,
but
there
is
a
danger
of
over
-
fìning
,
which
can
decrease
the
flavour
complexity
of
the
final
product
.
The
more
the
material
that
is
settled
out
at
this
stage
,
the
more
stable
the
finished
wine
will
be
.
Clarified
juice
is
then
fermented
into
base
wine
.
The
most
renowned
houses
still
ferment
in
oak
barrels
,
but
stainless
steel
vats
are
now
commonly
used
.
Cultured
yeasts
are
being
increasingly
employed
,
which
eliminates
most
of
the
elements
of
unpredictability
during
vinification
but
can
decrease
the
complexity
.
After
primary
fermentation
,
the
wine
is
settled
to
achieve
some
degree
of
stabilisation
.
This
is
preferably
carried
out
at
reduced
temperature
so
that
further
,
unwanted
yeast
enzyme
activity
is
discouraged
.
The
wine
is
then
racked
off
from
the
sediment
and
further
clarified
before
being
blended
(
assemblage
)
.
Assemblage
is
probably
the
most
critical
stage
in
the
convoluted
process
of
making
champagne
because
the
blender
has
to
envisage
how
a
series
of
often
hard
,
acidic
and
thin
base
wines
will
behave
after
blending
,
and
respond
to
a
secondary
fermentation
before
producing
a
memorable
wine
.
The
blenders
at
Moét
&
Chandon
,
for
example
,
often
have
up
to
300
base
wines
from
any
one
vintage
to
deal
with
.
The
possible
permutations
are
incalculable
.
Once
a
suitable
blend
has
been
established
,
called
the
cuvée
,
the
wine
needs
to
be
clarified
(
collage
)
once
again
,
since
the
combination
of
so
many
different
base
wines
invariably
causes
a
deposit
to
be
thrown
(
____________________
then
again
cold
stabilization
)
.
The
primary
fermentation
usualIy
results
in
a
dry
base
wine
*
,
so
a
source
of
fermentable
sugar
must
first
be
added
to
each
bottle
to
accommodate
further
yeast
growth
.
This
is
usualIy
effected
adding
a
solution
of
____________________
,
or
adding
a
small
sample
of
reserve
wine
containing
sucrose
(
called
liqueur
de
tirage
)
,
as
well
as
adding
a
suitable
strain
of
yeast
(
levurage
)
.
The
amount
of
sugar
added
depends
upon
the
alcohol
content
and
____________________
required
,
and
the
amount
and
type
of
yeast
added
will
vary
according
to
the
style
of
champagne
.
Yeast
for
this
fermentation
should
be
able
to
ferment
under
pressure
in
a
reducing
environment
,
about
10%
ethanol
and
the
presence
of
SO2
.
*
Occasionally
,
the
primary
fermentation
does
not
proceed
to
completion
,
and
adequate
sugar
remains
in
the
base
wine
to
accommodate
secondary
fermentation
.
In
such
cases
,
the
wine
is
transferred
to
another
bottle
and
a
fermentation
is
allowed
to
resume
to
completion
.
This
is
known
as
méthode
rurale
or
méthode
ancestrale
.
Once
alI
components
are
in
place
,
the
bottles
are
____________________
(
tirage
)
with
crown
caps
and
stored
.
The
CO2
liberated
during
secondary
fermentation
cannot
escape
,
and
the
resultant
pressure
demands
that
champagne
bottles
be
constructed
of
____________________
glass
.
During
fermentation
/
ageing
,
bottles
are
traditionalIy
stacked
and
separated
by
wooden
slats
(
lattes
)
in
such
a
way
that
if
a
rogue
bottle
explodes
,
the
rest
will
be
disturbed
as
little
as
possible
.
Bottles
are
commonly
stacked
in
a
____________________
position
(
entreillage
)
at
temperatures
of
12
-
15°C
,
then
____________________
takes
place
.
Manual
riddling
involves
the
tilting
and
turning
of
bottles
in
a
wooden
rack
(
pupitre
)
by
a
skilled
rémueur
(
that
can
turn
ca
.
6000
bottles
an
hour
)
.
Bottles
are
rotated
and
fractionally
tilted
until
they
assume
a
____________________
-
down
,
perpendicular
position
,
an
operation
that
may
last
several
months
.
During
rotation
,
the
sediment
and
gas
bubbles
promote
sediment
deposition
in
the
bottle
neck
.
These
days
,
riddling
can
be
done
automaticalIy
by
the
'gyropalette'
invented
by
the
Spanish
house
Codorniu
,
which
considerably
shortens
clarification
time
from
the
minimum
8
-
week
rémuage
to
around
10
days
.
The
gyropalette
consists
of
a
cage
containing
a
pallet
of
inverted
bottles
that
are
mechanically
rotated
every
8
h
,
causing
sediment
to
spiraI
down
to
the
neck
.
Once
the
sediment
is
in
this
position
,
the
wine
may
theoretically
be
stored
indefinitely
,
with
the
finer
champagnes
being
matured
for
up
to
5
years
in
upside
down
position
(
sur
pointes
)
.
With
the
sediment
now
in
the
bottle
neck
,
the
next
stage
is
to
____________________
it
by
dégorgement
,
a
process
that
requires
extreme
dexterity
and
speed
,
in
order
to
remove
the
crown
cap
and
immediately
disgorge
the
sediment
.
To
facilitate
this
,
the
neck
of
the
bottle
is
first
frozen
(
calcium
____________________
bath
at
ca
.
-
24°C
)
,
which
causes
a
small
ice
____________________
(
containing
the
sediment
)
to
form
.
The
bottle
is
then
returned
to
an
upright
position
,
ensuring
that
the
ice
plug
is
still
in
the
neck
and
the
crown
closure
is
removed
causing
the
sediment
-
laden
plug
to
be
forcefulIy
ejected
.
Before
freezing
was
introduced
,
the
operator
had
to
remove
the
cap
just
as
the
bottle
was
being
put
upright
before
the
sediment
had
a
chance
to
slide
back
down
the
bottle
-
a
method
known
as
'on
the
fly'
.
Although
dégorgement
is
essential
,
it
can
also
be
disruptive
because
it
briefly
exposes
the
wine
to
____________________
.
The
loss
of
a
small
volume
of
wine
during
dégorgement
is
compensated
for
by
topping
up
(
remplissage
)
with
a
considerable
quantity
(
ca
.
600
-
750
g
L
-
l
)
of
sugar
dissolved
in
base
wine
(
liqueur
d'expédition
)
.
For
a
brut
style
of
champagne
,
sugar
was
originalIy
omitted
from
the
base
wine
,
but
nowadays
a
low
dosage
(
10
-
20
g
L
-
l
)
is
incorporated
.
Riddling
and
disgorging
yeast
are
tedious
and
time
-
consuming
processes
,
even
when
carried
out
automaticalIy
,
and
over
the
years
experiments
have
been
carried
out
with
the
aim
of
using
____________________
yeast
for
secondary
fermentation
.
In
this
method
,
yeast
cells
are
entrapped
in
a
matrix
of
calcium
alginate
,
and
the
resultant
'yeast
balls'
(
called
billes
)
allow
yeast
-
Iiquid
interactions
across
the
alginate
barrier
,
but
do
not
permit
individual
cells
to
____________________
into
the
wine
.
The
technique
,
which
eliminates
the
necessity
for
riddling
,
was
developed
in
France
by
Moét
&
Chandon
.
Alginate
consists
of
two
basic
building
blocks
,
D
-
mannuronic
acid
and
L
-
guluronic
acid
,
which
form
a
'double
envelope'
around
the
yeast
.
Some
champagnes
are
naturally
sweet
at
the
end
of
secondary
fermentation
and
require
no
sugar
addition
before
reaching
the
consumer
.
Most
,
however
,
are
dry
and
have
low
pH
values
,
and
thus
benefit
from
sweetening
.
The
addition
of
sugar
at
this
stage
is
by
means
of
a
syrup
,
and
the
process
is
called
dosage
.
Most
syrups
would
consist
of
a
mixture
of
65%
sucrose
dissolved
in
base
wine
,
usually
with
S02
incorporated
.
Sweetness
level
can
also
affect
the
drinkers'
perception
of
acidity
,
bitterness
and
viscosity
After
dosage
,
bottles
are
now
ready
for
____________________
(
bourbage
)
,
nowadays
often
with
a
conglomerate
cork
with
one
or
more
discs
of
high
-
quality
cork
in
contact
with
the
wine
.
The
bottle
is
then
____________________
(
muselet
)
to
prevent
the
cork
from
being
blown
out
,
and
then
shaken
to
mix
in
the
viscous
liqueur
d'expédition
,
Finally
,
the
bottle
is
____________________
with
foil
(
habillage
)
and
____________________
.
The
secondary
fermentation
and
subsequent
events
,
makes
a
series
of
complex
changes
in
the
chemical
composition
of
the
wine
,
which
radicalIy
affect
aroma
,
flavour
and
foaming
ability
.
These
reactions
,
many
of
which
are
enzymatic
,
follow
a
definite
sequence
and
involve
proteins
,
amino
acids
,
lipids
,
polysaccharides
and
other
macromolecules
.
-
ethanol
content
____________________
by
around
l
.
3
-
l
.
4%
as
a
result
of
bottle
fermentation
.
This
level
will
decrease
fractionally
after
dosage
as
a
result
of
dilution
with
liqueur
d'expédition
;
-
acidity
____________________
slightly
due
to
malic
acid
breakdown
by
yeast
,
and
by
precipitation
of
potassium
hydrogen
tartrate
.
Again
,
acidity
might
change
(
rise
)
after
dosage
if
citric
acid
has
been
incorporated
into
the
liqueur
d'expédition
.
-
amino
acid
levels
decrease
since
they
are
required
for
yeast
growth
.
When
carbon
sources
become
depleted
and
the
yeast
becomes
stressed
,
nitrogen
compounds
are
excreted
into
the
wine
(
autolysis
of
yeast
cells
)
-
with
amino
acid
levels
reaching
a
peak
after
about
12
months
on
the
lees
,
but
low
levels
of
proteolysis
can
continue
for
years
if
the
wine
is
held
on
lees
.
Depending
on
ageing
time
yeast
protein
may
be
degraded
in
a
wide
range
of
reactions
involving
compounds
such
as
ethanol
,
malic
acid
and
tartaric
acid
.
They
act
as
precursors
of
aroma
and
flavour
compounds
such
as
higher
alcohoIs
,
lactones
,
polyamines
and
amino
acid
esters
.
After
a
period
of
time
,
however
,
amino
acid
levels
decrease
,
especially
those
of
alanine
and
arginine
.
This
is
due
to
them
becoming
de
-
aminated
,
and
also
because
of
their
participation
in
other
chemical
reactions
.
These
dynamic
fluctuations
in
amino
acid
content
contribute
greatly
to
the
final
flavour
and
aroma
of
a
wine
.
The
Tank
Method
(
Charmat
)
The
tank
or
bulk
process
represents
a
relatively
inexpensive
means
of
producing
large
quantities
of
sparkling
wine
.
It
is
also
known
as
the
closed
tank
or
Charmat
method
,
in
honour
of
Eugène
Charmat
,
who
developed
the
technique
in
France
during
the
first
decade
of
the
20th
century
(
supposedly
,
1907
)
.
Over
the
intervening
years
,
the
practicalities
have
been
modified
but
the
method
still
differs
from
méthode
champenoise
,
in
as
much
as
secondary
fermentation
takes
pIace
in
a
____________________
,
not
in
a
____________________
.
Modern
practice
now
means
that
the
wine
is
transferred
____________________
times
each
into
air
-
free
tanks
,
which
should
be
capable
of
accommodating
6
-
8
atmospheres
pressure
.
The
preferred
,
rather
Iaborious
,
way
of
voiding
the
tanks
of
air
is
to
fill
them
with
water
,
and
then
replace
the
water
with
CO2
.
Base
wine
is
pumped
into
the
first
pressure
tank
,
where
sucrose
and
yeast
suspension
are
added
to
give
final
concentrations
of
20
g
/
L
and
2
x
106
viable
cells
/
mI
,
respectively
.
This
mixture
is
then
fermented
to
'dryness'
(
ca
.
1
.
5
g
/
L
sugar
)
at
12
-
15°C
,
such
that
the
internaI
pressure
reaches
ca
.
500
kPa
.
The
wine
is
then
chilled
to
-
2
to
O°C
,
thus
causing
the
pressure
to
fall
to
ca
.
400
kPa
.
The
yeast
is
then
allowed
to
settle
over
a
few
days
before
being
further
clarified
(
centrifugation
and
filtration
)
and
introduced
into
a
second
air
-
free
tank
(
CO2
at
200
kPa
)
,
which
will
contain
any
sweetening
material
,
usually
consisting
of
sucrose
,
together
with
ascorbic
acid
and
SO2
.
This
concoction
is
then
mixed
and
micro
-
fìltered
(
0
.
45
um
)
into
a
third
pressurised
tank
(
CO2
at
200
kPa
)
using
CO2
pressure
as
the
driving
force
,
and
from
this
tank
the
wine
is
then
bottled
under
counter
-
pressure
.
All
transfers
are
carried
out
at
O
°C
or
below
so
as
to
retain
the
desired
level
of
dissolved
gas
.
The
Charmat
method
is
often
referred
to
as
cuve
close
,
and
many
of
the
French
wines
traded
under
the
name
of
'mousseux'
are
manufactured
in
this
way
.
Carbonation
This
method
is
used
for
producing
____________________
sparkling
wines
,
of
what
may
generally
be
regarded
as
the
'spumante'
type
.
A
stabilised
base
wine
is
prepared
and
filtered
as
if
it
were
to
be
bottled
.
It
is
then
chilled
in
a
tank
to
O°C
,
under
a
blanket
of
CO2
,
before
being
passed
through
a
carbonator
(
saturator
)
under
CO2
pressure
.
The
carbonator
is
usually
a
long
vertical
cylinder
in
which
the
chilled
wine
and
CO2
are
mixed
counter
-
currently
with
internaI
baffles
to
induce
turbulence
and
promote
contact
between
gas
and
wine
.
The
desired
level
of
'fizziness'
is
achieved
by
a
combination
of
flow
rate
through
the
carbonator
,
wine
temperature
and
gas
pressure
.
Wine
is
then
either
sterile
-
filtered
and
bottled
via
a
counter
-
pressure
filler
,
or
passed
to
a
pressurised
tank
where
it
is
stirred
for
a
few
days
and
then
filtered
and
bottled
.
The
latter
protocol
aids
the
retention
of
CO2
in
the
wine
.
Carbonated
wines
are
often
regarded
as
the
'poor
relations'
of
the
sparkling
wine
family
,
but
this
is
usually
due
to
the
quality
of
the
base
wine
,
rather
than
any
inherent
fault
in
the
carbonation
process
.
Certainly
,
carbonation
does
not
produce
the
same
quality
of
bubble
,
as
other
methods
do
,
for
inducing
a
sparkle
.
In
France
,
champagnes
are
aged
for
a
minimum
of
l
year
and
vintage
ones
for
3
years
.
The
important
sensory
characteristies
of
bottle
-
fermented
and
aged
sparkling
wines
are
attributable
to
the
autolysate
flavour
only
obtained
by
____________________
contact
time
.
Wines
with
bubbles
are
associated
with
festivities
and
celebrations
by
many
people
.
In
addition
to
the
normal
criteria
of
taste
and
aroma
,
sparkling
wine
quality
is
assessed
on
the
size
of
the
bubbles
-
the
smaller
they
are
,
the
better
is
the
wine
.
Significance
is
also
attributed
to
their
longevity
(
the
more
persistent
,
the
better
)
and
how
well
they
are
integrated
into
the
wine
.
Wines
made
by
méthode
champenoise
score
on
all
these
counts
,
being
____________________
,
longer
____________________
and
better
____________________
than
bubbles
formed
by
other
production
methods
,
which
tend
to
be
less
'creamy'
and
complex
.
When
decent
champagne
is
poured
into
a
glass
,
the
consumer
sees
the
foam
before
the
liquid
phase
.